Little waves lap at your feet.
You can kick back at them.
They don’t stop you.
Big waves force you to hold your own, to stagger your footing, to withstand the wave as it hits you.
Kicking back, you lose your balance and fall.
Now, jumping into the wave – whether it’s going over it or under it – it might not work the first time. You might get tripped up.
But it’s better than waiting for it to come to you.
